Critical Acclaim

Eating Out: Café Matisse in Rutherford 
Friday, January 14, 2005 By DAVID BONOM
RESTAURANT REVIEWER 
The Record

"Restaurants, unlike fine wine, rarely get better with age. Often, they peak shortly after opening when the excitement is highest, and then fade into mediocrity."

"Café Matisse defies that model. For 14 years, chef-owner Peter Loria has kept his food current and interesting. From my first visit in 1998 to my most recent, Matisse has matured and improved."

"The service, led by longtime manager Larry Falcone, runs like a fine Swiss timepiece."

"The service is formal, but not stiff. Every person on the staff goes the extra step to provide not just good, but excellent service. Diners wearing black, for instance, are offered black cloth napkins to replace the white ones, which eliminates the unsightly white lint so often left on one's lap. It is a simple, thoughtful - and by this diner, appreciated - gesture."

"The wait staff universally demonstrates passion for the work and attention to guests' comfort and pleasure."

"Pan-seared scallops with gingersnap-crusted foie gras walked a tightrope of textures and flavors. Four crisped sea scallops were paired with velvety, lightly crusted slices of foie gras. An intense zinfandel syrup and demi-glace reduction provided harmony and brought the dish into balance."

"Grilled Mayan shrimp and crab cake was one of our favorites. A small, well-browned crab cake rested in a creamy pool of fried black bean crème fraiche that was reminiscent of hummus and offered coolness against slices of spicy Italian sausage. The crab cake was topped with a crisp shrimp and piquant tomato chili jam and accompanied by a sour corn and lump crab potsticker (akin to a ravioli) that added both a tangy edge and visual interest."

"A disciple of celebrity chef David Bouley, Loria deftly and artistically uses a full range of complementary flavors and textures in his dishes. What could easily become heavy-handed and overdone is handled with precision and sensibility. A very lean, tender, medium-rare "filet mignon" of farm-raised venison played nicely against the rich foie gras, while a cardamom-perfumed parsnip purée provided a creamy textural contrast. Pearl onions and currants offered sweetness as the red wine-date demi-glace added both acid and sweet."

"As complex as the other dishes were, the wild Pacific king salmon was simple. The line-caught fish was seared crisp and served with a moist, translucent center. The fish was topped with a melting spoonful of dilled mascarpone cheese that took the place of a sauce or compound butter. The accompaniments were slices of spiny lobster tail, toasted hazelnut-studded brown rice and a buttery balsamic beet jus."

"Desserts, created by pastry chef Paula Hayward, included a dense chocolate hazelnut brownie topped with a scoop of hazelnut ice cream and set in a pool of espresso-flavored Frangelico crème anglaise. Also on the plate was a "chocolate-almond espresso" in demitasse that, in truth, was a decadent espresso-infused ganache topped with lightly sweetened whipped cream and toasted almonds."

"Waiter, two more of those please ... "